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Sunday, July 11, 2010

Dinner All Stars: Range - 2010 One Michelin Star

On our second outing with @DinnerAllStars we joined fellow foodies at Range in San Francisco. This outing 6 of us gathered to eat. I forgot my phone so I got to test drive the new camera on the iPhone 4. The built-in flash is definitely an improvement over my iPhone 3GS.

If you arrive early for dinner - first seating - grab a place at the bar. The handcrafted cocktails are not to be missed.
Drinks at The Bar
From left to right: Jack Horner and 4th Regiment.

cubes and I ordered a couple of drinks and settled in. I really enjoy watching the bartenders mix up their concoctions - everything looks so effortless. The Jack Horner had Old Overholt Rye, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Plum, Lemon, and Saffron-Cardamom Bitters in it. While the 4th Regiment had Wild Turkey Rye, Punt e Mes, Peychaud, Angostura, and Orange and Celery Bitters.

Range features sustainably grown, local ingredients so the menu changes by season. 
Appetizer and Entree Menu
Appetizer and Entrée Menu for July 10, 2010

We ordered a sampling of the appetizers: the puree of zucchini soup, cured steelhead, chicken liver mousse, and braised pork stuffed pasta. As usual my appetizer was modified to exclude dairy - yogurt in this case.
Puree of Zucchini Soup with Dill Pollen
Puree of Zucchini Soup with Dill Pollen
Cured Steelhead with Creme Friche, Fennel & Chioggia Beets
Cured Steelhead with Creme Fraiche, Fennel, and Chioggia Beets
Chicken Liver Mousse with a Frisee Salad
Chicken Liver Mousse with Frisee Salad
Braised Pork Stuffed Pasta with English Peas, Olive Oil and Parmesan
Braised Pork Stuffed Pasta with English Peas, Olive Oil and Parmesan
Photo taken by Joseph Pred.


Joshrander's Cured Steelhead appetizer was the most visually pleasing. But Joseph's Braised Pork Stuffed Pasta was the tastiest.

For dinner we ordered Petrale Sole, California Sea Bass, Slow Cooked Duck Breast, and Pan Roasted Bavette Steak. The first time we ate here with cubes' parents I also had sole for my entrée. The dishes that can stand on their own without dairy-based sauces seems limited to fish. I'll have to go back to see if the best entrée choice for me is again a Sole.

Petrale Sole with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Green Peppercorn Sauce
Petrale Sole with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Green Peppercorn Sauce
California Sea Bass with Corn Chowder, Pancetta, Fingerling Potatoes and Chives
California Sea Bass with Corn Chowder, Pancetta, Fingerling Potatoes, and Chives
Slow Cooked Duck Breast with Creamed Hominy, Dino Kale and Marinated Spring Onions
Slow Cooked Duck Breast with Creamed Hominy, Dino Kale, and Marinated Spring Onions
Photo taken by @emyay
Pan Roasted Bavette Steak with Squash Blossoms, Basil, Wheat Berries and Parmesan Jus
Pan Roasted Bavette Steak with Squash Blossoms, Basil, Wheat Berries, and Parmesan Jus
Photo taken by Joseph Pred.

My entrée was light - flavors and textures balancing nicely and the fish cooked perfectly. Of the options my favorite entrée was the duck. It just melted in your mouth and left you wanting for more. I was good - I didn't devour emyay's plate even though I totally wanted to.

To finish out our meal, all of us ordered dessert - including me! As I'd been refraining from dairy throughout the meal, I was excited to see they were offering a cheese plate that featured sheep's milk cheeses.
Dessert Menu
Dessert Menu for July 10, 2010

The Moonflower cheese was extremely popular and by the time it came for us to order dessert they were out. Luckily for me they had another option - Truffled Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey. Remembering my last cheese plate at Oola's before we headed out to Burning Man I was looking forward to a sweet and savory cheese pairing.

The rest of the table ordered the Seascape Strawberry Shortcake, Bittersweet Chocolate Souffle, Peach Leaf Pot de Creme, and Cornmeal Crepes.
Seascape Strawberry Shortcake with Rose Geranium Cream
Seascape Strawberry Shortcake with Rose Geranium Cream
Bittersweet Chocolate Souffle
Bittersweet Chocolate Souffle with Creme Fraiche Ice Cream
Photo taken by Joseph Pred.
IMG_0287
Peach Leaf Pot de Creme with Sour Cherry Coulis and Cocoa Nib Cookies: Before
Photo taken by cubes.
Peach Leaf Pot de Creme with Sour Cherry Coulis and Cocoa Nib Cookies
Peach Leaf Pot de Creme with Sour Cherry Coulis and Cocoa Nib Cookies: After
Photo taken by cubes.
Cornmeal Crepes with Blackberries, Peaches and Noyaux Ice Cream
Cornmeal Crepes with Blackberries, Peaches, and Noyaux Ice Cream

Truffled Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey
Truffled Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey

I wish I could say that the goat cheese and honey pairing was sublime, but alas I cannot. Trying to find words to describe what I was tasting and to see if maybe the truffle was overwhelming the honey, I sampled just the cheese and the toast. The cheese and toast were a good match. I tried the honey on its own. It was so bitter that it overpowered the senses. The brave among us also tried the pairing.

When the waitress came back to ask if everything was alright, I mentioned that the odd pairing. She responded by saying that Chestnut Honey is an acquired taste. She too hated it the first time she had it, but after a few times could now eat it. Still not convinced that something was wrong with the dish, I ate around the honey. The waitress in the meantime had gone back to the kitchen and returned with dates. A much better, more expected flavor pairing.

We ended the dinner on a final sweet note - chocolate truffles.
Final Sweet Note
Photo taken by cubes.


Update: According to Food & Wine, "chestnut honey has a pungent and unmistakable flavor. Its aftertaste is reminiscent of the bitter almond flavor in the kernels of stone fruits." Supposedly chestnut honeys have different intensities of flavor "depend[ing] on the method by which bees are moved amongst blossoming chestnut trees, as well as how or even if the honey is refined after it is harvested." Definitely not something I think I'd try again.

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